Welcome to Paris, the city of love, lights, and endless inspiration. It's easy to get caught up in the most famous attractions like the Louvre, Eiffel Tower, and Champs-Élysées, but what if I told you there's a different way to experience the magic of Paris? Slow travel is an art that allows you to fully immerse yourself in the local culture and savor every moment of your trip. In this blog post, I'll show you how to slow down and appreciate the beauty of Paris, from indulging in Pain au Chocolat at a quaint café to strolling along the Seine River at sunrise. Get ready to fall in love with Paris again, but this time at a slower pace. Keep reading for The Real Bonne Vivante's Slow Travel Guide to Paris.
Paris, a Slow Travel Destination
Anthony Bourdain once said, "The most important thing to do the instant you arrive in Paris is stop. Don't pack your itinerary with a destination's highlights unless you want to miss its magic. Instead, slow down and savor it". After spending a month living in Paris, it's a city that is largely misunderstood by many. Most people who have not visited think of the decadence, glamour, and extravagance often depicted in movies about Paris. Yes, while you can find that, there is much more to the city. The authentic Paris I experienced offered far more depth, culture, and beauty than any travel guide I've read.
Getting to Paris
The great news is that because Paris is a global hub, you can find reasonable (and often direct) airfare from other international airports. Our round-trip nonstop flight from Miami to Paris was less than $400 when we booked through American Airlines. I love using Google Flight notifications when rates drop on international flights. Skyscanner is great for checking international flight prices, too.
Paris is also a great "home base" to travel for extended periods because of its proximity to endless European destinations. Want to take a weekend trip to the Swiss border? Hop on a train and explore Alsace in just a few hours. Want to drink the world's best champagne on a romantic getaway? Take the train to head or hire a rental car to visit there the following weekend. It's really that simple.
The Cost of Living in Paris
While Paris is one of the most pricey places to visit in Europe, you'll be surprised to find that the cost of living is substantially less expensive if you plan to stay here for an extended period than what you would pay in a major city in the United States.
As American travelers who call Miami home, we saved money by living in Paris, thanks to the ongoing inflation prices in the United States. We chose to end our lease a few months before, and we paid a fraction of the cost in monthly rent, groceries, and occasionally dining out in Paris. In my opinion, the quality of living is far superior in France regarding food quality, accessibility to excellent French wine, sustainability initiatives, and general education.
Housing: Our dreamy one-bedroom Parisian loft in the heart of Bastille costs a fraction of most apartments in New York, Los Angeles, and Miami. I've lived in all three cities and can personally attest to this!
Getting Around: You can walk or bike practically anywhere. Uber is available in France and Paris' public transportation, the Metro.
Food: Food is one of the main reasons to visit and experience France. The quality of food is far superior compared to the United States, and there are so many delicious local products. The food at restaurants and grocery stores was shockingly less expensive than what we pay in Miami — and for much better quality.
Staying Healthy: Being active is easy, especially if you are walking or biking to get around. There are plenty of gyms, sports clubs, and studios to keep you active while traveling. Try them out through ClassPass, which is also available in France!
Luxury is (More) Affordable in Paris: A little secret that the world's most stylish people know is that you can find luxury French brands, such as Hermés, Celine, Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, and Chanel for a fraction of the price you will pay in the United States. Luxury French labels are more affordable in France because of lower import taxes, minimal transportation costs, and a highly competitive market that drives prices down. Additionally, some luxury brands may offer lower prices in their home country to maintain their brand image and reputation among locals.
TRBV Intel: International travelers who are not residents of the European Union are eligible for VAT (Value Added Tax) refund on luxury items purchased in France, meaning it is possible to get a refund percentage on that handbag that you're already paying a lower price on by purchasing it in France.
- Look for stores displaying the "Tax-Free Shopping" sign and ask the salesperson for a "tax-free shopping form" at the time of purchase. VAT Refunds are generally available at most luxury stores, especially for high-ticket items.
- At the time of purchase, provide your passport and request that the salesperson fill out the tax refund form with your personal information.
- At the airport or port of departure, before check-in or boarding, present the tax refund form, the purchased item(s), and your passport to the customs office for validation.
- After validation, bring the form to the designated tax refund counter to receive your refund in cash or to be credited back to your credit card.
- It's important to note that there is usually a minimum purchase amount required to be eligible for a tax refund, and there may be processing fees associated with the refund. Additionally, some luxury brands have their tax refund processes, so it's always a good idea to check with the store at the time of purchase for specific instructions.
Find Your Home Base for Slow Travel in Paris
As you begin deciding where you plan to stay in Paris, you'll quickly notice that the city is comprised of "arrondissements." Arrondissements are the 20 districts of Paris, arranged in a spiral pattern starting from the city's center. We stayed in Bastille, the 11th arrondissement and this travel guide focuses on this area.
We stayed at this charming 1824 Parisian gem that the owners renovated themselves. The apartment is bathed in natural light, offers luxurious linens, and showcases antique furnishings with fascinating stories. Guests can enjoy a fully-equipped kitchen, a comfortable living room (complete with a fold-out sofa and a 19th-century daybed), an upstairs bedroom with a heavenly queen-size bed, and a bathroom with a view of the sky. Plus, the location is unbeatable, and the owner, Anna, provides excellent insider tips for exploring the city.
TRBV Intel: The key to finding a great home base for a month-plus stay is reading the reviews in depth. This is particularly true if you plan to do remote work here because you will spend more time in the apartment than the average traveler. It's worth the extra splurge for amenities that feel more like home than thinking you'll be fine with the essentials. For us, high-speed internet is non-negotiable, and a full kitchen is required.
Slow Travel Requires Maintaining a Routine
For any extended stay, it is essential to keep a consistent routine, especially if you plan to work remotely during your trip. Our schedule was dictated by our work schedules of 9 AM EST - 6 PM EST, which worked perfectly as it gave us a half day to explore before logging on to work. A typical day looked something like this:
8 AM: Wake up, get ready for the day, and have a light breakfast cooked at home
9 AM: Explore the city
12 PM: Have lunch at a restaurant wherever you are exploring
2:30 PM: Return to the apartment
3 PM: Sign on to work for the rest of the day through the evening
9 PM: Take your work "lunch break" to cook and eat for the evening. Sometimes, we ordered takeout from the excellent pho restaurant just steps away, downstairs from our VRBO to save time
Midnight: Sign off from work and head to bed
While this schedule may not be possible for everyone, it's certainly doable for solo travelers, couples, and remote workers. If you are traveling with kids who have a set routine, this could be more difficult. Working U.S. hours is the easiest when traveling in Europe and the U.K. because it is a simple schedule flip. You'll have most of the day to explore with excellent sunlight and lighting for photos. Cities are generally safer during the day anyway, streets more accessible to navigate, and Paris has great lunch specials for a fraction of the price — with the same excellent quality.
Local Paris Recommendations
Best Parisian Markets and Grocery Stores
Paris is famous for its outdoor markets and indoor food halls, where locals and tourists can find fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and other culinary delights. Outdoor markets, also known as "marchés," are held throughout the city, offering a lively atmosphere and a chance to interact with vendors and other shoppers. They typically sell a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables, cheeses, meats, seafood, and baked goods.
In addition to outdoor markets and indoor food halls, Paris is home to numerous grocery stores, including large chains such as Carrefour and Monoprix, as well as smaller specialty stores. These stores offer a variety of products at different price points and may also provide a selection of prepared foods and snacks.
Marché d'Aligre
Just around the corner in Bastille, you'll find a beautiful covered market known as Marché d'Aligre. From French cheeses, coastal seafood, fresh vegetables, and even local flowers, you'll find everything here. This makes for a great day trip with a few excellent restaurants and bars in the area, along with a patch of green grass dotted with shady trees, perfect for picnicking. I couldn't be more French.
TRBV Intel: Oysters and white wine are popular street food in Paris. You'll find some great spots close to this market!
Marché d’Aligre | 25-11 Rue d'Aligre, 75012 Paris, France
Marché Richard Lenior
Less picturesque but still beautiful, you’ll find locals doing their Sunday shopping at Marché Richard Lenoir. This market has excellent products at less expensive prices than Marché d’Aligre. The street where the market is located is closed off to cars on Sundays, making a wonderful weekend stroll with restaurants and boutique shops lining its side streets. Stop by on Thursdays and Sundays, 7 AM-3 PM.
Marché Richard Lenoir | 2018 Bd Richard-Lenoir, 75011 Paris, France
Monoprix
Monoprix was the closest supermarket to our recommended VRBO, where you find everything from very good cheese to cosmetic products and clothing on their upper floor. The American equivalent is Target.
Monoprix | 99 Rue du Fbg Saint Antoine, 75011 Paris, France
Bio C’est Bon
There’s also an organic supermarket called Bio C’est Bon right next door.
Bio C’est Bon | 85 Av. Ledru Rollin, 75011 Paris, France
Favorite Places to Eat in Bastille, Paris
Parisian cuisine is a rich and diverse reflection of French culinary traditions, offering various dishes ranging from haute cuisine to hearty bistro fare. It is characterized by its emphasis on fresh, high-quality ingredients, including meats, seafood, vegetables, and cheeses, and rich sauces and flavorful seasonings. Popular Parisian dishes include coq au vin, escargot, boeuf bourguignon, ratatouille, croissants, macarons, and a wide variety of French cheeses. Parisian cuisine also features a thriving street food scene, with crepes, falafel, and traditional French sandwiches such as the croque-monsieur and jambon-beurre being popular choices. The city is home to numerous Michelin-starred restaurants, as well as many cozy bistros and cafes, making it a culinary destination for food lovers from all over the world.
Chez Paul
Chez Paul is a quintessential 1928 French bistro tucked away on a charming side street in the Bastille neighborhood of Paris. The atmosphere is warm and lively, with a cozy interior adorned with vintage posters, black and white checkered floors, and a bustling open kitchen. The menu features classic French dishes like escargot, steak au poivre, and bone marrow, all made with fresh and high-quality ingredients. The wine list is extensive. I came here twice for the steak au poivre and a glass of champagne, my all-time favorite dish.
Chez Paul | 13 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris, France
Chez Bistro Paul Bert
Chez Bistro Paul Bert is a beloved restaurant among locals and visitors alike. Tucked away on a quiet street in the 11th arrondissement, the charming bistro offers a warm and inviting atmosphere, complete with vintage decor and a bustling open kitchen. The menu features classic French dishes with a modern twist, using fresh and seasonal ingredients sourced from local markets. Some of the standout dishes include the succulent steak frites, the creamy foie gras, and the indulgent chocolate mousse. The service is attentive and friendly, making for a delightful dining experience from start to finish. With its lively ambiance and delicious cuisine, Chez Bistro Paul Bert is a must-visit for anyone seeking an authentic taste of Parisian cuisine.
Chez Bistro Paul Bert | 18 Rue Paul Bert, 75011 Paris, France
Le Septime
A 15-minute walk from the VRBO, you’ll find Le Septime. The food is delightful, and you can guarantee it’s an experience as it now has a Michelin star. The ambiance is French country house shabby chic, long wooden tables, and beautiful light. Be sure to book a reservation in advance, as it fills up quickly. The 7-course dinner is 80 Euros.
Le Septime | 80 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris, France
Novettino Paninoteca
Novettino Paninoteca is a fabulous little sandwich shop about a 5-minute walk from the VRBO apartment. You’ll find freshly baked bread and a fantastic menu of fresh-to-order sandwiches, possibly the best I’ve ever had. We had to come here at least ten times in the month we stayed here. They knew us by name, and we were so sad to say goodbye to them on our last day!
Novettino Paninoteca | 1 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris
Chez Janou
Chez Janou is a charming bistro known for its authentic Provençal cuisine and warm ambiance. With its traditional blue and white checked tablecloths, antique copper pans hanging from the walls, and a cozy fireplace, the atmosphere is quintessentially French. The menu features classic dishes like escargots, bouillabaisse, and ratatouille, as well as a wide selection of traditional French wines and refreshing cocktails.
Chez Janou | 2 Rue Roger Verlomme, 75003 Paris, France
La Comète
La Comète is an intimate bistro in the heart of Paris, offering a menu focused on classic “French Nouvelle” dishes with a modern twist. The warm and inviting atmosphere, dim lighting, and exposed brick walls set the backdrop for an impressive menu featuring fresh, seasonal ingredients, various meat and seafood options, and vegetarian plates from the South of France.
La Comète | 140 Rue de la Roquette
Boulangeries and Paninotecas
French boulangeries, or bakeries, are an essential part of French culture and cuisine. These charming and inviting shops are on almost every corner of French cities, towns, and villages. They offer a wide range of delicious and freshly baked bread, pastries, cakes, and other treats made using traditional techniques and high-quality ingredients.
The smell of freshly baked bread wafts out of these establishments and lures passersby inside. Once inside, customers are greeted by beautiful and mouth-watering baked goods, such as crusty baguettes, flaky croissants, buttery pain au chocolat, colorful macarons, and fruit tarts. These delectable treats are often arranged in perfectly stacked and arranged rows, inviting customers to indulge in the French culinary experience. Many boulangeries in France are family-owned and operated, with recipes passed down for generations. The bakers take pride in their craft and use only the best ingredients to produce their products. The traditional methods of making these baked goods often involve long fermentation periods and slow proofing, resulting in an unparalleled texture and flavor.
In addition to the baked goods, boulangeries often offer a selection of sandwiches, quiches, and savory snacks, making them a popular spot for lunch. Customers can also enjoy a coffee or tea paired perfectly with a freshly baked croissant or pain au chocolat.
Visiting a French boulangerie is not just about satisfying one's hunger; it is also an experience that immerses one in France's rich and delicious culture. From the warm and inviting atmosphere to the delectable smells and flavors, a trip to a French boulangerie is essential to any visit to France.
RBV Intel: Wherever you buy your bread in Paris, always remember there are two categories of baguettes—and they are not created equally. Always ask for baguette tradition, and avoid a baguette classique or ordinary at all costs. The former, with its white crumb and crispy crust, is usually the most affordable option and often contains additives, gluten, ascorbic acid, and other preservatives. However, discerning connoisseurs of French bread know that the true star is the baguette tradition, which embodies the essence of artisanal baking. By French law, this iconic bread can only contain four simple ingredients: flour, leavening, water, and salt. Artfully hand-shaped and baked on-site, the baguette tradition is often made with a natural sourdough starter, lending a distinctive flavor and texture that cannot be replicated.
Boulanger Passtiere for Savory Breads
The best bakery in all of Bastille is the “red bakery”, Boulanger Passtiere. Don’t be deterred by its ordinary decor and red-painted storefront, either. Locals in the neighborhood vouch that the croissants and the baguette tradition are sublime.
Boulanger Passtiere | 28 Rue de la Roquette, 75011 Paris, France
Aux Anges for Sweet Treats
Also excellent is Aux Anges, the “blue bakery” by locals, across the street from the “red bakery” listed above. This boulangerie offers more choices, exciting cakes, hazelnut bread, and decadent almond-chocolate croissants, perfect for sweet-toothed travelers.
Aux Anges | 23 Rue Daval, 75011 Paris, France
Decadant Parisian Chocolate by Alain Ducasse
Alain Ducasse, the legendary Michelin-starred chef, is widely recognized as the quintessential authority on traditional French cuisine. With his artisanal chocolate production space on Rue de la Roquette, he has established himself as the master of crafting delectable, divine chocolate creations. Step inside his shop, and you'll be transported to a heavenly world of chocolatey bliss. And suppose you're fortunate enough to visit on the right day. In that case, you'll be greeted with the intoxicating aroma of freshly made chocolate wafting through the air, enveloping you in a warm and tender embrace that touches your soul. The shop is closed on Sundays, so stop in from 10 AM-7 PM.
Chocolat Alain Ducasse | 40 Rue de la Roquette, 75011 Paris, France
Paris Caberets
Paris cabarets are an iconic part of the city's vibrant nightlife scene, offering visitors an unforgettable experience filled with music, dance, and theatrical performances. Originating in the 19th century, these establishments were initially known for their lively and often risqué performances, attracting bohemian artists, writers, and intellectuals. The birth of the cabaret culture coincided with a period of artistic and social revolution, with venues like the Moulin Rouge and Folies Bergère becoming renowned for their extravagant shows and groundbreaking acts. Over the years, cabarets have evolved to encompass various forms of entertainment, including music, dance, comedy, and avant-garde performances, solidifying their status as a symbol of Parisian nightlife and artistic expression.
Au Lapin Agile
Au Lapin Agile is one of the oldest and most iconic cabarets in Montmartre, Paris. Its history dates back to the 19th century when it served as a gathering place for renowned artists such as Pablo Picasso, Amedeo Modigliani, and Maurice Utrillo. The cabaret's rustic interior and intimate setting have preserved its authentic charm, making it a favorite among locals and tourists alike. With its rich heritage and storied past, Au Lapin Agile continues to captivate audiences with its traditional French chansons and lively performances, embodying the artistic spirit that defines Montmartre's bohemian culture. We spent an entire evening here drinking sherry and singing along to classic French songs. It was absolutely an unforgettable memory in Paris.
Au Lapin Agile | 22 Rue des Saules, 75018 Paris, France
Crazy Horse
Crazy Horse Paris is a renowned cabaret in the city, recognized for its avant-garde and quite provocative topless and fully nude performances. Since its establishment in 1951, the cabaret has remained a symbol of Parisian nightlife, famed for its artistic displays of sensuality and creativity. With a legacy of celebrating the female form through innovative choreography and elaborate lighting techniques, Crazy Horse Paris has become an integral part of the city's entertainment scene, attracting audiences from around the world to experience its bold and seductive shows. Go dressed to impress.
Crazy Horse | 12 Av. George V, 75008 Paris, France
Moulin Rouge
Moulin Rouge is a legendary cabaret in Paris, world-renowned for its captivating performances, lavish costumes, and extravagant sets. Established in 1889, it has a rich history deeply intertwined with the cultural fabric of the city. Moulin Rouge continues to be a symbol of Parisian nightlife, drawing visitors from all corners of the globe to witness its \shows, featuring can-can dancers, vibrant music, and a celebration of art and entertainment. While it is more "mainstream" than the other two options for my own taste, it's worth a visit given its history.
Moulin Rouge | 82 Bd de Clichy, 75018 Paris, France
Interesting Areas in Paris
Saint Ouen Fleamarket
Just outside of the city limits of Paris, you'll find the Fleamarket Saint Ouen, also known as Les Puces de Saint-Ouen. It is one of the largest and most famous flea markets in the world, with more than 2,000 shops, stalls, and vendors selling everything from vintage clothing to antique furniture, from rare books to unique art pieces. The French value beautiful old things with exciting stories — adding to the charm of this city! The market is divided into several sections, each with its style and specialty, and it's easy to get lost among the winding alleys and hidden courtyards. You can easily spend hours browsing through the eclectic mix of treasures, negotiating with vendors, and soaking up the vibrant atmosphere of this historic market.
You can take the metro or Uber here (but it will incur a decent fare of around 30 Euros each way). Don't be deterred once you arrive, as the area can be a bit gritty — head straight to the market. Paul Bert and Vernaison are great spots to catch a bite while you're here.
Canal Saint Martin
Canal Saint Martin is a very hip and "bo-bo" (what the French say for "bohemian-bourgeois") canal in Paris, France, that runs from the Seine River at the Port de l'Arsenal to the Bassin de la Villette, constructed in the early 19th century. It has become a popular spot for tourists and locals, offering picturesque bridges, tree-lined paths, and numerous cafes and bars along its banks.
La Goutte d’Or
Known as the African quarter, La Goutte d'Or is a vibrant neighborhood in the 18th arrondissement of Paris. It is known for its multicultural atmosphere, with many immigrants from North and West Africa. You’ll find an impressive street market, Marché Barbès, filled with fresh mint, exotic vegetables, and spices that come from ex-colonies of France. Also, stop by to enjoy the colorful street markets and murals.
Jardin des Plantes
Jardin des Plantes is a large botanical garden in the 5th arrondissement of Paris, France. It is the central botanical garden in France. It features several greenhouses, a zoo, a natural history museum, and various parks, including a rose garden, an alpine garden, and a botanical school. The garden was initially created in 1626 as a medicinal herb garden and has since expanded to become a significant attraction for visitors interested in botany and nature. It’s the perfect place to go for a lunchtime stroll and enjoy watching the birds. Believe it or not, there are parakeets in Paris! The crows are also highly confident and will approach you if you have a sandwich. It’s the perfect place to people-watch, too.
The Backside of Montmartre
On almost every Paris guide, you’ll find Montmartre listed. It is home to the famous Basilica of the Sacré-Cœur and the lively Place du Tertre, surrounded by cafes, restaurants, and street artists. Montmartre was a hub for artists in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, including Pablo Picasso, Vincent van Gogh, and Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec. The whole backside of Montmartre is a hidden gem! Nobody ever goes there, and you’ll find unique places like the beautiful restaurant-café and urban gardening space La Recyclerie and its sister Le Hazard Ludique. Both are rehabilitated railway stations and tell you a lot about the true Paris and where it’s headed.
La Seine
About a ten-minute walk from Bastille awaits the La Seine River. A beautiful, quiet pedestrian walkway and bike path along the Seine will take you to many notable monuments, such as Ile Saint Louis, Le Louvre, Concorde, Quai d’Orsay, and even the Eiffel Tower if you keep going long enough.
RBV Intel: The best way to experience Paris is by walking on foot or renting bikes. There are several bike rental services where you can rent them off the street and leave them anywhere you want to. The United States equivalent is the City Bike. Download the apps Mobike, Gobee, or Ofo, and you’ll most certainly always find unused bicycles in Bastille.
La Coulée Verte
An abandoned railway line turned public garden, La Coulée Verte is to Paris what the Highline is to New York City. You’ll find wonderful views of Paris with interesting perspectives of the city walking between rooftops, vibrant flower beds, and endless water fountains.
Conclusion
Paris' rich history, beautiful architecture, vibrant neighborhoods, and world-renowned cuisine all provide endless opportunities to explore and savor the city. With its numerous parks, gardens, and cafes, Paris also offers plenty of spaces to relax and soak in the atmosphere. Whether browsing the markets, browsing through museums, or simply people-watching from a park bench, Paris encourages visitors to slow down and enjoy the moment. By immersing yourself in the city's culture and way of life, you can truly appreciate all that Paris has to offer. Let us know in the comments below for any additional places we should add to our Guide to Slow Travel in Paris.
Feeling inspired? Check out our 40 Photos to Inspire You to Visit Paris.
This post may be sponsored or contain affiliate links, which means I receive a small commission, at no cost to you, if you make a purchase through a link.
Share this story
