Ah, sweet summer in Italy - a sensory feast of citrus-scented Aperol Spritz, warm sea breeze caressing sun-kissed skin, and the tantalizing aroma of fresh pasta wafting from trattorias tucked away in cobbled streets. Our recent European escapade took us on a month-long journey, from partying with friends in Ibiza and Mallorca to embarking on a creative pilgrimage to Puglia, with its dazzling blend of white-washed buildings and sun-drenched sandstone structures. Come, delve into my ultimate guide to Puglia, where every corner brims with inspiration and unforgettable experiences.
Begin Your Trip in Italy's Golden City, Lecce
Italy has long been considered a top travel destination, with cities like Rome and Tuscany drawing crowds of tourists every year. But there's a secret that's slowly starting to spread — the southern region of Puglia is an equally enchanting and lesser-known gem. Pronounced as "pool-ya", or Apulia (its lesser common Latin name), this area is located in Italy's "heel of the boot" and is characterized by its abundant countryside, olive trees, and slower pace of life.
Dubbed as the 'Florence of the South,' Puglia has become a popular destination for those seeking a charming and romantic getaway. During the COVID-19 pandemic, it became even more appealing due to its uncomplicated nature, inviting visitors to enjoy its tranquil beauty and friendly hospitality. Exploring the local restaurants and artisan shops is an absolute must, as they offer unique experiences that allow visitors to immerse themselves in the local culture.
Our trip to Puglia was made even more special by our stay at Palazzo Sant’Anna in the city of Lecce. This hotel surpassed all our expectations regarding hospitality, comfort, ambiance, and the level of care given to its guests. Beatrice and Alfonso, the owners, went above and beyond to make our stay memorable. From booking dinner reservations at the hottest spots in Lecce to organizing a private cooking class with a local chef, they made sure that every moment of our trip was unforgettable.
One of the highlights of our stay was a private boat day off the coast of Salento, organized by the hotel. We explored secluded coves and crystal-clear waters, enjoying a breathtaking coastline view. And when we returned to our hotel, we were greeted by a sweet midnight snack as part of the nightly turndown service.
Sail the Turquoise Waters and Swim in the Sea Caves of Salento
Most people don't know this, but exploring the sea caves is a must-do when visiting Italy's Puglia region. For a truly unforgettable experience, we chartered a private boat and skipper from La Excursions de Torro, which is operated through Salento Easy. Be sure to book at least a few days in advance, and ask about group charters if you're on a budget.
The Adriatic and Ionian Seas are magical and mostly untouched by mass tourism. Even during the high season in August, we rarely encountered other people in the caves. The caves are only accessible by sea, so diving into the crystal clear waters off the boat's bow and swimming some distance to the caves made for an exhilarating start to the adventure. Once inside the caves, we navigated through the twists and turns, with daylight slowly fading into the distance. I highly recommend Lover's Cave for couples, where secret tunnels add to the excitement.
Our boat charter company provided a beautiful home-cooked lunch with wine, pizza, fruits, and snacks. Alternatively, you can bring your own. We even asked the kitchen at Palazzo Santa'Anna to pack charcuterie boards with the wine we bought from Castello Monaci on our wine tour. If you want to try this adventure, ask for Margharita as your skipper and tell her I sent you! Note that this activity is only suitable for strong swimmers, as some deep areas are in the open ocean. Of course, you can always stay on the boat and enjoy the view with a glass of wine in hand.
The Art of Wine Tasting in Italy
For those planning to visit vineyards and wineries in Puglia, I advise booking in advance to avoid any unexpected challenges — and closed venues. As wine enthusiasts ourselves, we learned this the hard way, arriving unannounced at a wine estate during the afternoon riposo, only to be turned away from several places. Fortunately, Marco at Castello Monaci kindly welcomed us back later in the day for a complete tour.
Without a doubt, the wines produced by Castello Monaci are exceptional. So much so that we purchased a few cases to gift our hosts at Palazzo Sant'Anna as a token of gratitude for our wonderful stay. Castello Monaci stands as one of the premier wine estates in the region, boasting a picturesque estate that could easily be mistaken for a movie set. Their tours offer visitors the opportunity to explore the grounds, cellars, and various buildings on the property, all while indulging in their award-winning wines.
Head to the "Citte Blanco", known as Ostuni
Ostuni, a city in the Valle d’Itria countryside, is one of Puglia's most globally renowned regions, offering endless olive trees and spectacular views of the shimmering Adriatic Sea. The town is a stunning labyrinth of historical beauty that begs discovery.
The city's iconic white houses, a sight to behold, have a fascinating history dating back to the 17th century when a plague ravaged the area, and homes were painted white by mixing limestone dust with water to indicate an infected house. Interestingly, locals noticed a decrease in illnesses near these white houses and attributed it to a miracle, though it was later proven to be the antibacterial effect of calcium carbonate. The white houses attract tourists nowadays, and the local government encourages homeowners to repaint every two years by paying half the cost.
Despite spending only a few hours in Ostuni due to the rainy weather, we were awed by its beauty and rich history. We are eager to return and explore the outlying countryside regions, particularly the masserias, which we have heard so much about. One that has piqued my interest is Masseria Moroseta, which I have added to my must-visit list for the next time we're in the area.
5 Puglia Restaurants to Add to Your List
Il Volo (Lecce) | Alex Ristorante (Lecce) | W Club (Lecce) | Casanova (Arabella) | Osteria del Tempo Perso (Lecce)
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